Wow- if you do it first time and have some asset of time in your disposition – then go ahead and purchase motherboard, your favorite processor, memory, video card (probably it is better to purchase it external for advanced quality). You will also need computer case – first computer should probably go to the cheap one – with USB 2 ports from the front side – the only question – you might want to replace noisy cheap power supply with $50 dollars one. Processor fan – nowadays you will see the variety for all the tastes – get the one with adjustable spinning speed to regulate noise (if you could not place it into the basement of your house – I guess you live in apartment or student dormitory). Let’s go to details:
• Ahead of Generation. It is not a secret that when you build your own computer – you might overpay – in considering to what is available in the stores.. However you usually get ahead of technology. For example – it is still common when Dell/Compaq/IBM computers use PC2700 standard of memory. If you bought PC3200 – you have two years of being ahead of the competition
• Processor. If you build your computer from scratches – you should look into 64-bits processor from the beginning. Get AMD Athlon 64 3400+ at least
• Video Card. For $100 you can get maximum of memory and performance. This is why we recommend to get external videocard
• DVD Writer. RW+/- unfortunately Japanese manufacturers are in the process of decision making on winning standards plus DVD of high density. Get both supported.
• Hard Drive. Decent motherboards support IDE raid and you could experiment with striping (raid 0). Then if you purchase two IDE disks 400 GB each – you will get 800 GB – unbelievable for supercomputers – but you are on your own and cosmopolitan individual – step forward and be ahead of competition.
• Troubleshooting. Understood and respected. First listen your mother board beeps and refer to its documentation. It might not see memory, graphical card, etc. When you are installing memory – be very careful to static electricity issue. When you are attaching your mother board to computer case – the most typical issue is motherboard shorting – so do not be surprised to try your motherboard first outside the case
|W|P|114752613767636904|W|P|Build Your First Computer from Hardware Scratches|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comWow- if you do it first time and have some asset of time in your disposition – then go ahead and purchase motherboard, your favorite processor, memory, video card (probably it is better to purchase it external for advanced quality). You will also need computer case – first computer should probably go to the cheap one – with USB 2 ports from the front side – the only question – you might want to replace noisy cheap power supply with $50 dollars one. Processor fan – nowadays you will see the variety for all the tastes – get the one with adjustable spinning speed to regulate noise (if you could not place it into the basement of your house – I guess you live in apartment or student dormitory). Let’s go to details:
• Ahead of Generation. It is not a secret that when you build your own computer – you might overpay – in considering to what is available in the stores.. However you usually get ahead of technology. For example – it is still common when Dell/Compaq/IBM computers use PC2700 standard of memory. If you bought PC3200 – you have two years of being ahead of the competition
• Processor. If you build your computer from scratches – you should look into 64-bits processor from the beginning. Get AMD Athlon 64 3400+ at least
• Video Card. For $100 you can get maximum of memory and performance. This is why we recommend to get external videocard
• DVD Writer. RW+/- unfortunately Japanese manufacturers are in the process of decision making on winning standards plus DVD of high density. Get both supported.
• Hard Drive. Decent motherboards support IDE raid and you could experiment with striping (raid 0). Then if you purchase two IDE disks 400 GB each – you will get 800 GB – unbelievable for supercomputers – but you are on your own and cosmopolitan individual – step forward and be ahead of competition.
• Troubleshooting. Understood and respected. First listen your mother board beeps and refer to its documentation. It might not see memory, graphical card, etc. When you are installing memory – be very careful to static electricity issue. When you are attaching your mother board to computer case – the most typical issue is motherboard shorting – so do not be surprised to try your motherboard first outside the case
|W|P|114752403991238215|W|P|Build Your First Computer from Hardware Scratches|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comTime is one of the most important things we have that we are always short on. One way to maximize your time is to have the most up to date technology available. But, this can be costly. If you are in the market to purchase CD duplication or replication products, you won’t have to spend a lot of money to get quality products to help you with this. Depending on what type of CD duplication you are interested in, you will more then likely find just what you need online and do so quickly.
But, what is it that you need your CD duplication to accomplish? For many, simple CD duplication equipment is needed to download music, movies, or files from the Internet. Other things you may need CD duplication for include producing your own music or coping that of another’s. What will you use your CD duplication equipment for? What are your needs on a broad scale and then on a specific level as well? By defining what your needs in CD duplication are, you will effectively be able to get the right product for you.
Once you know what you need in your CD duplication equipment, you can begin your search. First, you will find that most of all the products you can imagine in CD duplication are available for you to purchase online. While in most cases, we are talking about components to add to your own personal computer, there are many other products for more sophisticated needs as well. First, let us speak of the more sophisticated of CD duplications. If you are looking to have CD’s duplicated on a large scale, you may wish to consider looking for a company to manufacture them for you. Unless you plan to do this often, having someone else handle your CD replication can be a great time saver and money saver as well.
Now, if you are looking for CD duplication for your computer, you face a completely different situation. First of all, most new models of computers actually come with CD burning features that can allow you to download off the internet a wide variety of things including music, movies, software and more. You can also copy CD’s from one drive to the next. So, for personal use, CD duplication software may already be on your computer.
Regardless of what type of CD duplication you are planning to do, you can find all the necessary equipment and materials available to you online. What you need to do, though, is determine if you need to purchase CD duplication equipment or possibly enable a company to service your CD duplication needs. Or, you may simply want or need to own your own CD duplication equipment. In that case, you’ll be surprised at all that is available to help you. You may even be able to purchase an add-on to your current computer that will allow you to do your own CD duplication. Whatever you need, there is something out there to provide it to you!
|W|P|114752400798273873|W|P|Looking for Information on CD Duplication and Replication?|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comIt is the most annoying thing when one day you use your computer and nothing seems to work fine. Program freezes, files get corrupted or internet doesn’t work. You called the customer support or some friends you know who’s very much familiar with computer and still didn’t solve the problem.
There could be one to many things why this happens, you probably came across with spy- wares or dangerous ad-wares or even virus when you were working on that computer last time, but whatever the reason is, your only main concern is to get it up and running so you can go on with your work.
You tried everything and the only hope you can think of now is to format your computer. Formatting is the last and ultimate solution you should resort into. You just don’t format a computer like your deleting a file. You need to back up all your software data, personal documents, pictures, other folders you may feel important, and of course you got to look for those original installation disk for your devices such as printers, scanners or any other device hooked up in your computer, these are called drivers. If your computer came with original recovery disks then you need that too, recovery disks are usually bundled with your branded computer system, such as HP, Dell, Gateway or any other leading computer manufacturer and if you have them, its as easy as putting the CD recovery disks and running it, it will do the rest of the process for you.
If your recovery disk is gone or you didn’t have one then this is what this article is for. Your only savior is to go back to the most recent settings that worked, in other words yesterday’s settings. Microsoft provides an effective way to somehow backup your computer settings and configuration, this is called System Restore. System Restore has the ability to create a restore point wherein every once a week or two depending on how often you install or uninstall updates and programs. The following steps will walk you through the process of setting up your restore point and how to go back if you need it.
Start by going to Start->Programs->Accessories->System Tools, and then open System Restore.
On the right side panel it will give you an option to Create Restore point or Restore my computer to an earlier time.
Choose Create Restore Point, and then put your description, hit next then put in the date you want to go back to, then hit “Create” and that’s it. You just save yourself on formatting your computer in the future.
|W|P|114752397796155587|W|P|Using System Restore to Save Yourself from Formatting Your Hard Drive|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comMany technicians are confused on how to really read a zener diode code. There are many types of code number indicated on it's body. The look and shape of a zener diode sometimescan be mistaken to be a normal signal diode. To differentiate it, is by looking at the codenumber on it's body- whether it is a normal diode or zener diode. Thanks to the manufacturers where their main boards are printed with the word 'ZD' which referred to zener diode and 'D' means a diode.
However, from my experienced some printed circuit board the marking of 'D' also can represent zener diode. This will misled a technician into believing a zener diode is actually a diode. We as a technician or engineer must know or be sensitive about the marking. The only way to find out is by referring the code number printed on the component's body from a semiconductor data book. Without data book it is quite difficult to know the actual zener diode voltage. If you do not have the data book you may go to google search engine and type the following code and hope you can find the answer there! A wrong substitution of zener diode may caused your equipment to malfunction and sometimes will even blow your equipment. Time and money are loss due to that we lack of knowledge of identify the right zener diode voltage. If you are unable to identify the code, do not worry as this newsletter are here to guide you to successfully on how to read the zener diode code.
5.1=5.1Volt zener diode
5V1=5.1Volt zener diode
12= 12 Volt zener diode
12V= 12 Volt zener diode
BZX85C22=22Volt 1 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)
BZY85C22=22Volt 1/2 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)
Note: There is also part number such as BZVXXXXX where you have to find it from ECG SEMICONDUCTOR BOOK.
1N4746= 18 Volt 1 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)
6C2=6.2 Volt zener diode. (If you look at the zener diode code it is written as 6C2 READING FROM TOP TO BOTTOM) Don't read from bottom to top otherwise the value you get is 2C6 which you cannot find from data book!
I believe many will ask how do I get the voltage for the code of 6C2. Still refer to ECG book, you have to search for HZ part number. That's mean instead of finding 6C2, search for HZ6C2 and you will get the answer! The lowest zener voltage that I came across was 2.4 volt and the highest was 200 Volt 5 watt.
Conclusion- Be alert when checking the part number of a zener diode. Don't always assume that a small signal diode is always a zener diode. Carefully observe the marking on the main board and read the zener diode part number refer to the semiconductor book, preferably ECG SEMICONDUCTOR DATA BOOK which you can get from your local electronic distributor. With this knowledge in mind, you will be successfully find the right voltage of a zener diode.
|W|P|114752394762042114|W|P|How to Read Zener Diode Code|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comDigital cameras have really taken off in popularity in recent years. It's not uncommon anymore to see several people at an event with a digital camera. Here are some things to keep in mind when getting your digital camera prints converted into keepsakes.
Digital Camera Print - Where should you go?
Owning your own photo quality printer is definitely the fastest option. There are even people who take a small portable inkjet printer with them and make prints on the road.
Is it cheaper to print you own Digital Camera Print?
The large chains have jumped into this fray in a BIG way. Wal-Mart, Blacks, Business Depot, and many others. With all this competition comes low pricing. A typical 4x6 print from a big chain is cheaper than the retail cost of the do-it-yourself paper that the same chain sells in their photography center. And at home you still have to pay for the ink!
Keep the following in mind...
Low digital print price. All the major players have priced their 4x6 size very competitively. The larger sizes though, like 5x7 or 8x10, are usually higher in cost than what you can do at home.
Digital Photo Drop Off. Can you upload your digital pictures to the photo print company via the internet which is very convenient or do you have to deliver them on a CD?
Photo Print Delivery. Does your photo lab let you pick them up in the store, or do you have to wait for the post office or a courier? Picking them up at the store should be a no-cost option. If you can pick them up, make sure the location easy to get in and out of.
How fast can you get your digital photos? One photo lab has a reputation of having most orders ready in one business day. Another is a bit cheaper, but takes a week.
Digital Photo Quality. You may have to talk to relatives, friends, and co-workers about this one. Find others who have already tried various printers. One photo lab's web site states that they will not print a picture with too low a resolution (nothing under 150 DPI allowed). This can be inconvenient, but assures you of a quality print.
Doing your homework ahead of time can ensure that you will get the best digital prints and the best prices so that you get maximum enjoyment out of your digital camera.
|W|P|114752391531131916|W|P|Digital Camera Prints - Getting the Most for Your Money|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comWhy are there faint areas or gaps in my print out?
* Unlikely, but your paper may need changing due to its deterioration due to its age.
* Check that the type of paper you are using in your printer matches ('Media Type') the setting in the printer software 'Main Menu' or 'Print' dialog box.
* You may need to clean the print head nozzles. These can be cleaned by employing the 'Head Cleaning' utility from within the printer software interface you get when you want to print or by going via the 'Control Panel' (found via 'My Computer') and selecting the printers section. After the cleaning operations are carried out by the printer, a check pattern will be printed to show that the ink cartridge nozzles are clean. If there are still poor quality areas, repeat the operation.
I have white horizontal lines appearing?
* You may need to clean the print head nozzles - see above
* If your printer has a light flashing indicating low ink levels for a cartridge, then change it.
* Check that the type of paper you are using in your printer ('Media Type') matches the setting in the printer software 'Main Menu' or 'Print' dialog box. The colors are not what I thought they'd be?
* Clean your print head nozzles - see above
* You've not chosen the color option in your printer software interface. This has happened to me many times. By default, my printer software had black selected for all printing.
* Specific types of paper have one side only that can be printed on. Ensure that it is loaded correctly in your printer.
* Check that the type of paper you are using in your printer ('Media Type') matches the setting in the printer software 'Main Menu' or 'Print' dialog box.
* What you see on your monitor will never be identical to what you get on your print out. It shouldn't be that far out, but if it is, then you you may have a color calibration issue between your monitor and software package that you are using.
Finally;
Never buy brand name inkjet cartridges. Get what are called compatible ink cartridges. They are much cheaper and produce the same quality results. www.ink-cartridge-store.com shows you the range of such products available nowadays.
In my experience, if you use your ink cartridges infrequently, then you will find yourself having to use the cleaning utilities practically every time you do use them. So I suggest printing out a b/w and color text page (say, 200 words with black, red, blue and yellow colors) on a regular basis (once a week?) even if you are not using the printer. You will save ink in the long run as the cleaning utility will use a lot more than your weekly maintenance pages.
This article may be reproduced in its entirety provided the resource paragraph below is included and all urls kept active.
|W|P|114752387833957437|W|P|Ink Cartridges & Printing - Poor Print Quality Solutions|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comYou will have many factors to consider when deciding on which computer equipment to buy. The bewildering amount of choices can seem overwhelming. This guide will help you compare computer equipment features, and help you to examine and sift through many of the basic items before you buy a new computer. If it be a desktop PC, laptop, discount/surplus computer, a refurbished computer or a computer accessory, this quick guide will help you to get the most for your money.
With today's computer equipment almost any of them will adequately handle what most people need to buy a new computer for; word processing, basic office, internet surfing and email. Which you can buy for about $1000. or less! But if you are into digital videos, photo editing, music, or manage a large database you will need more than the basic Desktop PC or Laptop. This higher end computer will cost you around $1500-$2000.
(CPU) Processors: There is always a lot of change in the computer market, but no matter what the upgrades there is always two basic choices to be made when purchasing computer equipment: 1) brand 2) speed. To buy a new computer that handles standard office and Internet tasks any processor will work.
Need more 'power' in your computer equipment? Then the Intel Pentium4 or the AMD Athlon XP (great for graphics and photos which use a lot of memory space) are for you.
If you buy a new computer one or two levels from the top you will only lose about five percent per tier performance but you can save a couple hundred dollars!
(RAM) Memory: Memory is most important because optimum running of your computer equipment is dependent on enough RAM. The minimum amount should be 256MB, for better performance you should get 512MB. If it is affordable to buy a new computer with more, you should. It's worth it because you can keep more applications open and it will easily handle memory hogs like Photoshop and music applications!
Monitors: When buying your computer equipment look for a monitor that is at least 17" with a resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels. A Desktop PC with a 19-inch monitor gives you 20 % more screen area. If you can spend $300-$450 on a monitor when you buy a new computer you might want to get a 15" LCD because it has the same viewable area as the 17" CRT and takes up much less space.
Hard Drives (storage): Most hard drives in today market will provide more than enough storage. The basic computer equipment comes with 40GB or larger, which is plenty for most tasks. But for working with graphics, video, music, or large databases 80GB should be the minimum you settle for. 7200-rpm drives give better performance. But for the best performance get a computer with 8MB of cache.
Warranty and Tech Support: A one-year warranty on most computer equipment is plenty, because most problems seem to happen in the first year. If you want you can get an extended two to three year warranty for around $150. to $200. As of this writing, if you buy a Dell you can get priority call routing to tech support for a year for only $39.
|W|P|114752383751702873|W|P|What You Should Know Before You Buy A New Computer|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comEEPROM stands for Electrical Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory and also referred to as E²PROM. As the name suggest, an EEPROM can be both erased and programmed with electrical pulses. Since it can be both electrically written into and electrically erased, the EEPROM can be rapidly programmed and erased in circuit for reprogramming without removing them from the circuit board.
EEPROM is also called a non-volatile memory because when power is turned off the stored data in the EEPROM will not be erased or intact. New EEPROM have no data in it and usually have to program with a programmer before it can be use. Information stored in this type of memory can be retained for many years without a steady power supply.
What is the function of EEPROM? EEPROMs are used to store user programmable information such as: -
• VCR programming information • CD programming information • Digital satellite receiver control data • User information on various consumer products
EEPROM in monitor performs two functions:
• When a monitor is switch on it will copies all data or information from the EEPROM to the microprocessor. For example, the EEPROM will let the microprocessor know the frequencies at which the monitor is going to operate.
• The EEPROM is used to store the current settings of the monitor. The settings of the monitor will not be erased even when the monitor is turned off. Anytime a change is made in the monitor settings, the microprocessor updates the setting in the EEPROM. When the monitor is turn on again, the stored settings are used to set up the monitor for operation.
What are the symptoms if the MONITOR or TV’s EEPROM data is corrupted or damaged?
• No high voltage (no display).
• Horizontal or vertical frequencies run.
• Cannot save (store) current setting.
• Certain control functions like sound, brightness and contrast control does not functioning.
• On Screen Display (OSD) does not function or the OSD have a corrupted display.
• High voltage shut down (EEPROM set the horizontal frequency way too low or twice the line frequency perhaps leading to failure of the horizontal output transistor (HOT)).
What is an EEPROM programmer or copier?
EEPROM seldom fail, they just lose or have their memory (data) corrupted may be due to high voltage and static discharge from a monitor. Once reprogrammed they are as good as new. As mentioned earlier, new EEPROMs are blank and need information or data to be loaded in order for it to functions. The job of copying the data into an EEPROM is done by a programmer or a copier. Programmers comes in all shapes and sizes. You can copy these devices for repair replacement only. You cannot copy them for resale without a letter of approved from the vendor who produced them. There is quite a number of companies selling EEPROM programmer:
|W|P|114752379968630239|W|P|What is EEPROM ?|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comHave you ever encountered before the problem of having multiple paper loading in your HP LaserJet 5L and 6L? Do you know that this is caused by a defective separation pad where it's rubber has worn out.
The function of separation pad is to control or allow paper to go through it, one at a time. If it spoilt, few sheets of paper will be pulled instead of one whenever you send a printer command. This sometimes will caused the papers to jammed up. For the worst case, it will spoil your heating/fuser sleeve. The price of a heating element is more expensive than a separation pad. There is one temporary way that you can use to solve the problem stated without buying a new separation pad. The process of removing and changing the separation pad is just easy and fast.
Firstly, remove the rubber pad from the holder. Be careful while you're removing because you might torn the rubber into pieces.
Secondly, clean the holder to prevent any dirt or glue sticking on it. After that, apply a small amount of super glue that is just enough to cover the full surface of the rubber pad.
Finally, reversed the rubber pad and stick it back to the holder. Please ensure that the surface should face upward before you stick the rubber pad. It will work as good as a new one.
*Note: If you are servicing the printer for your customer, I'll recommend you to replace a new one for them unless you’re maintaining and servicing your own laser printer.
|W|P|114752376747491392|W|P|How to Solve Multiple Paper Loading Problem in HP5L and HP6L Laser Printer|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comAll picture tubes, whether monochrome or color type are identified by a specific code consisting of numbers and letters. The codes are different from each other because different tubes have different characteristics.
For example, a certain monitor colour picture tube may have the designation, M34AFA63X03 that can breakdown into 6 parts: M/34/AFA/63/X/03
Part 1: Application
Computer monitor tubes start with the letter "M” while for a TV picture tube, it start with “A”.
Part 2: Screen diagonal measure in centimeters (cm)
The “34” means the diagonal viewing measure is a minimum of 34cm which refers to 14” tube, 36cm is 15”, 41cm is 17” and so on.
Part 3: Family code
The three letters “AFA” designate a family of tubes that have similar physical and electrical characteristic. These letters are assigned alphabetically beginning with “AAA”, followed by “AAB”, “AAC” etc.
Part 4: Family number
The number 63 shows a specific tube within the family code. A different number is assigned to tubes within the same family that have different neck diameters, for example a single digit would be a monochrome tube, but this two-digit number shows it is colour.
Part 5: Phosphor Type
The fifth symbol gives the phosphor designation. The letter X here corresponds to P22 for colour picture tubes. Colour monitor tubes can have any other single letter (excluding I, O, or W) to designate other phosphor type for various applications. For monochrome pictures, the phosphor symbol is WW, corresponding to P4. Monochrome monitor tubes also can use WW or some other two-letter combination (excluding I and O).
Part 6: Integral neck components
The sixth symbol is assigned only for tubes having integral neck components, such as the deflection yoke. The specs are only apply to a particular tube manufacturer. The primary consideration here is winding inductance. The yoke coils have different sensitivity i.e. deflection per Amp in both horizontal and vertical.
|W|P|114752374556503644|W|P|How to Read CRT Tube Part Numbers|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comCrystal are use to keep the frequency of the clock from drifting. If the signal from this clock stops, or is weak, or the pulses begin to vary, the electronic equipments might show intermittent faults or might stop altogether. The microprocessor pins that hold the crystal are usually called OSC IN and OSC OUT as shown in Figure 1 and the frequency is marked on the crystal. Typical examples of crystal oscillator frequency are 3.58MHZ, 4MHZ, 8MHZ, 24MHZ etc.
Testing Crystal Crystals are quite fragile components because of their construction. Unlike a resistor or capacitor, if you drop one on the ground from a decent height, its 50-50 bet whether it will work again. Testing the crystal is not a breeze either. You cannot just take out your trusty multimeter and plug the crystal in it. In fact, there are three right ways to test a crystal: -
(a) Using Oscilloscope A crystal produces a sine wave when excited. It is appropriate then, to see a waveform representative of a sine wave on the clock pins. If the clock is not functioning properly, replace the crystal. In most cases this should solve the problem since microprocessors are usually very reliable. Check the crystal with power on.
(b) Frequency Counter Frequency Counter can be use to check the frequency of the crystal. The reading must be taken when the equipment power is switch “on”. Place the probe of frequency counter to the crystal pin and read the measurement. Be sure that your frequency counter meter has the range that is higher than the crystal frequency you are measuring.
(c) Crystal Checker With this method, usually the crystal is placed in the feedback network of a transistor oscillator. If it oscillates and the LED is lighten up, this mean that the crystal is working. If the crystal doesn’t work, the LED stays off. Instead of using LED, some other crystal checker uses a panel meter to indicate if the crystal is working or not.
|W|P|114752371343580879|W|P|What Is A Crystal? And How To Test It|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comIf, for some reason, you can’t get an exact replacement for the transistor that you want to replace, you can refer to one of the transistor substitution guides or book, and try to identify a “near replacement”. Beware, however. A substitution guide will sometimes list a replacement for your part, even though the two parts are not very similar. The most commonly used transistor substitution guides is the Philips ECG semiconductors Master Replacement Guide. Selecting the right transistor parameters or specifications for the equipment you repair will avoid callbacks from customers. Callbacks or repeated repairs due to wrong transistor substitution will cost you extra money and a waste of time.
Some important transistor parameters are:
Maximum collector-to-base voltage (VCBO) – The replacement part should have a VCBO rating equal to or higher than the original.
Maximum collector-to-emitter voltage (VCEO) – The replacement part should have a VCEO rating equal to or higher than the original.
Maximum emitter-to-base voltage (VEBO) – The replacement part should have a VEBO rating equal to or greater than the original.
Maximum collector current (IC) – The replacement part should be able to handle as much (or more) collector current as the original.
Power dissipation (PD Watts) – The replacement part should be able to dissipate as much (or more) power as the original part.
Gain (hFE) – The replacement should have a gain equal to or better than the original and it should be as close to the original specification as possible.
Gain-bandwidth (fT) – the replacement should have a transition frequency equal to or faster than the original and it should be as close to the original specification as possible.
Below is a table of application requirement and important specification that you can use for guidelines when comes to transistor substitution.
Application Requirement and Important Specifications
1. General purpose low level amplifier and switching transistors. Spec- hFE, IC (max), fT, VCEO
2. Power switching applications. Spec- VCEO, VCBO, hFE, IC (max), PD (max)
3. Low level IF/RF amplification. Spec- IC (max), fT, VCEO
4. Audio amplification. Spec- IC (max), PD (max), hFE, VCEO
5. High voltage transistors. Spec- VCEO, VCBO, IC (max), fT
Remember, the replacement transistor should not run hot and if problem still persist, try another replacement number or get the original number if possible. Do not overlook that the surrounding components also may caused the transistor to run hot even if original number is used.
|W|P|114752367690269352|W|P|Understanding Transistor Data and Replacement|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comA fuse is a very thin wire, which either melts or vaporizes when too much current flows through it. The thin wire may be made of aluminum, tin-coated copper or nickel. The resulting open in the circuit stops current flow. In electronic equipment, most fuses are cylindrical glass or ceramic type with a metal cap at each end! The current rating also can be seen in one of the two metal end caps. There are two popular physical sizes: 1 – ¼ X ¼ - inch and 5X20mm. The 1 – ¼ X ¼ - inch size is used in many automobiles. You’ll find both sizes in many electronic equipment, but the smaller 5 X 20mm has become more common. Fuses are available with current ratings from 1/500 Ampere to hundreds of amperes.
Purpose of Fuses
The purpose of a fuse is to open an electronic circuit when current flow exceeds a certain amount, determined by the rating of the fuse. Opening a circuit under high current conditions can save electronic components from damaged and prevents overheating, which could cause a fire.
Types of Fuses
There is two basic types of fuses: fast acting and slow blow. The fast acting type will open very quickly when their particular current rating is exceeded. This is important for analog meter movements, which can quickly be destroyed when too much current flows through them, for even a very small amount of time. Slow blow fuse have a coiled construction inside. They are designed to open only on a continued overload, such as a short circuit. The purpose of coiled construction is to prevent the fuse from blowing on just a temporary current surge.
Do not use a slow blow fuse in place of a fast acting fuse. It may not open fast enough to prevent components damage under a high current condition. It’s not harmful to replace a slow blow fuse with a fast-acting fuse, but it will probably open up unnecessarily every now and then when the equipment is first switch on. A blown fuse can tell you something about your service problem. Often the glass case of the fuse appears clear, and you can still see the broken pieces of the fuse element. This means you have the kind of problem that causes a slow, gradual overload on the power supply. Some fuses even die of old age. But if the inside of the glass fuse is discolored, and there is no trace of the fuse element (the center connector), you know that the center connector was destroyed quickly and violently, using a lot of heat. The fault was a short circuit or other problem that caused a lot of current to flow very quickly.
Is some cases a fuse will open up fast enough when there is a surge so that other components aren’t damaged. If this is the case, replacing the fuse with one of the same type and rating restores operation. Unfortunately, a high probability exists that if a fuse blew, something in the circuit it was protecting shorted out. In this case, a replacement fuse blows right away. The blown fuse can easily be replaced by a new one, after the overload has been eliminated when come into replacement. Use only the same current and voltage ratings as the original. The common type and current rating of a fuse in a monitor are slow blow 2A to 5A. When you buy replacement fuses, get several – you can easily use all of them while you’re troubleshooting an elusive problem.
Testing Fuses
Turn the power off and remove the fuse from the circuit to check with a multimeter set to the lowest ohms range. Connect the probes to both end of the fuse. You may check the fuse while it still in circuit. A good fuse should showed continuity or read 0 ohm. A blown fuse is open which reads infinity on the meter.
|W|P|114752322436647139|W|P|What Is A Fuse? And How To Test It.|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comAll capacitors have a certain amount of resistance to the passage of AC current. ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) is the sum of all internal resistances of a capacitor measured in Ohms. An ideal capacitor has ZERO ohms ESR. From the diagram below you can see a resistor in series with a “PERFECT CAPACITOR”. The value of the resistor is called ESR. Electrolytic Capacitors have a tendency to increase its ESR overtime due to drying or corrosion. High ESR is a frequent problem in today’s electronic circuit. Even a 1 or 2 ohms rise in ESR can cause complicated problems. Under normal conditions the ESR has a very low value, which stays that way for many years unless the rubber seal is defective, in which case the electrolyte’s water component gradually dries out and the ESR creeps up with time. The increase in ESR increases both voltage drops within the capacitor and the heat, produced in the capacitors due to resistive heating. If you don’t check for ESR, you may be in for a “TOUGH DOG” repair. High ESR is the first sign of a capacitor failure. High ESR will cause complete circuit failure, over heating of capacitor, loading of the circuit, overstressing of other circuit components and other undesirable effects.
Why should I use an ESR?
Because measuring an electrolytic capacitor with an analog or digital capacitance meter can MISLEAD a technician into believing that a defective capacitor is good. This can waste your precious time and you are unable to repair the equipment. Which means you can’t charge your customer! If you don’t test for ESR on the capacitor, you will always miss the bad capacitor. Normally, these bad capacitors have high ESR reading which your normal multimeter or digital capacitance meter can’t measure. Only by using the ESR meter, you will be able to measure the ESR on the capacitor and you will not be fooled by capacitors with bad ESR. ESR meter can even work IN-CIRCUIT, which means you don’t have to solder out the capacitor in order to measure it using normal capacitor tester, which would not be accurate anyway.
Do you know that ESR meters can perform other wonders besides checking the ESR of a capacitor? Some digital ESR meter have the features of checking:
» Low ohms resistor such as 0.22 ohm, 0.33 ohm and etc.
» Horizontal yoke coil winding of a picture tube, inductor and primary winding of a transformer – If a shorted turn is present, the inductance drops dramatically and the meter will show the ohms reading.
» Horizontal output transistor (HOT) in a monitor or TV – If an open-circuit reading is obtained, the short-circuit is elsewhere. If the short-circuit remains, the transistor is faulty.
» Short-circuit in the track, usually trace to the components - You can use the ESR meter to locate short-circuits on printed circuit boards by measuring the actual track resistance. If the reading increases as you probe further along the track, you know you’re going in the wrong direction!
» Speakers, amplifier etc - The pulses have a fast rise/fall time, so it would probably make a crude RF signal injector as well.
» The condition of both the normal and rechargeable batteries – Flat and faulty battery will have high ESR.
|W|P|114752318769890568|W|P|What is ESR Meter?|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comFor years, I smugly prided myself as a non-fax machine person. I felt it beneath my dignity to own such a technical contraption. The quill is more my style than a computer but, being practical, I reluctantly use a computer, casting wistful glances at the dust gathering on my quill.
Unfortunately, in the world in which we live, it is necessary to fax some letters or documents to someone in some odd part of the world. I don't like it, but that's just the way it is.
On the rare occasion when I must fax some document at an office supply store, I usually sneak in the back way. It has been my experience, when the fax man seeth me cometh, he always raises the price per page. This is just a small service he does for Yours Truly.
Then, when paying for this service, the fax man usually says with an impish grin, "When are you going to get a fax machine of your own?"
I always flash a smile back at him, but if he knew the thoughts in my head, he would charge me more per page. Silence truly is golden, especially for the person exercising the virtue.
Actually, I don't trust machines. I know a mind somewhere is controlling all of these machines — a menacing, mischievous mind dedicated to the simple task of messing up my life.
When I eventually break down and buy a fax machine someone will invent something to replace it and I'll have another antique on my hands to put alongside of my Underwood typewriter and boxes of 8-track tapes.
This notwithstanding, I ended up buying a fax machine several weeks ago. I didn't want to, but I had no choice in the matter.
My printer finally went the way of all printers. I hated to see it go. The left side was cracked where Noah, the original owner, dropped it. For years, it served me quite well. My next printer will have a big ink cartridge to fill.
I hate buying replacement equipment. Rarely is the new any better than the old, just more expensive, not to mention complicated. But, necessity is the stepmother of all complications in life, and I set out to buy a new printer.
I resolutely did not want to buy a fax machine. Under no circumstance did I want to buy a fax machine. Therefore, I ended up buying a fax machine.
It is impossible to buy a printer anymore. In order to buy a printer you must buy a machine that prints/copies/scans/faxes. I think it's a pretty sneaky way to get me to buy a fax machine. Someone "out there" is set on me owning a fax machine even though I don't want to own one.
This new machine does everything but vacuum the interior of my car. But it was the cheapest machine I could find.
I bought the machine but determined not to use the fax part. After all, somebody has to stand up for what they believe. Not everybody should succumb to the latest trend.
I was doing fine until ending up in the hospital. When I got out, I needed to fax a document to the hospital. Now I faced a taxing dilemma.
Do I go to the office store and fax my document, or do I try out my new printer/copier/scanner/fax machine?
Precedence finally gave way to convenience. I took my document to my new machine and figured out how to fax it to the hospital.
Not being confident in my technical knowledge, I called the hospital office to check on the faxed document. Much to my surprise the person on the other end said in a very cheery voice, "Yes, I have the faxed document right here in my hand."
I must admit, although I hate doing so, faxing from my house was much easier than going to the office store.
I now knew how to fax a document anywhere in the world, but I had nothing to fax to anyone in the world. I just stood there looking at my machine trying to think of something to fax.
Even though I knew how to fax a document, I still did not know how to receive a fax.
Several days ago, a friend called and said he had a document he wanted me to have right away. He then asked the ominous question, "Do you have a fax machine?"
I began to say no, but hesitated and confessed I had a fax machine but did not know how to receive faxes. It was humiliating to make such a confession, but it was true.
"It's simple," he said, "hang up the phone and I'll dial again and let the machines talk to one another."
This caused no small discomfort. To think these machines are talking to one another behind my back is most disturbing. What are they saying about me behind my back?
Now that I come to think about it, I have heard sounds similar to snickering coming from the general direction of my printer/scanner/copier/fax machine. I don't mind Big Brother watching over me, but I do mind some machine making jokes with other machines about me.
When it comes to "new things," God is the master. This is what He promises to do for us. "Therefore if any man be in Christ, he is a new creature: old things are passed away; behold, all things are become new." (2 Corinthians 5:17 KJV.)
|W|P|114752306663688720|W|P|Just The Fax, M'am|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comJust about everyone would I agree, I think, that wires on headphones are just about the most annoying wires associated with any electronic device. When you listen to music you don't want to have to stay in anyone one place, and you don't want to have to worry about cords tripping you are pulling your headphones down. The answer to this problem is wireless headphones, many of which allow you to listen to music over 100 feet away. They, like all wireless devices, give you a sense of freedom, an ability to move, work, and play wherever you want. You will find here a list of some of the most popular wireless headphone devices, with important information about each.
RCA WHR120 Infrared Wireless Stereo Headphones
Manufacturers Description: Experience the freedom that RCA Infrared Wireless Headphones can provide. You don't have to be chained to your stereo when you put on a pair of headphones. With the infrared, line-of-sight transmission, you have 23 feet to roam as you please. Also, the base doubles as a convenient charger and stand. And the lightweight design and adjustable band make for a comfortable, snug fit. Enjoy life with RCA technology.
Key Features:
- Provides convenient listening privacy in the same room
- Low cost infrared technology operates up to 20 ft. from transmitter
- Adjustable headband provides comfort for hours of listening pleasure
- Horizontal style transmitter is compact, saves shelf space
- Operates on Two "AAA" size rechargeable batteries (connect to transmitter for recharging)
Price: $25
RCA WHR150 Wireless Stereo Headphones
Manufacturers Description: Hear your stereo outside your house without disturbing the neighbors. With RCA Wireless 900 MHz Headphones, you don't even have to be in the same room with your stereo. The 900 MHz signal can pass through walls, floors, and carry outside of your home up to 125 ft. That means you have the freedom to work or relax wherever you wish without the problem of being connected to cords or carrying around a portable system. The lightweight design and adjustable headband make the fit so comfortable that you will hardly notice you have them on, as you move freely about your home. Also, the unique compact base serves as both a charger and a stand. Add some freedom to your life with this innovation from the RCA brand.
Key Features:
- Transmits 900MHz stereo signal up to 125 ft.
- Goes through walls and floors
- Unique compact base serves as both a charger and a stand
- Lightweight design with adjustable headband
- Soft earpads for comfortable listening
Price: $75
Sony MDRRF920RK 900 MHz Wireless Headphones
Manufacturers Description: Tired of tripping over cords, and accidentally ripping out headphone jacks? Go wireless, and listen to the freedom. Sony's MDR-RF920RK 900 MHz RF Wirless Headphones have a transmission range of 150 feet, allowing you to roam your house or yard without missing a beat (or word). The 900 MHz radio frequency delivers high quality sound, and the 30mm driver units provide deeper bass, lower distortion and a wider dynamic range. These lightweight headphones are easily recharged by placing them on the transmitter, and the package includes rechargeable NiMH batteries.
A powerful ARM processor lets you listen to MP3s while looking up an address or scheduling an appointment. Watch the latest movie trailer or a new sales video. Carry digital photo albums of friends and family, students and co-workers, even the latest real estate listings. Plus it’s expandable, and with 32MB of memory there’s plenty of room to customize from more than 18,000 applications (sold separately).
Key Features:
- Wireless Design lets you move inside and outside your house and still enjoy music and TV sound, and lets you turn up the volume late at night without disturbing others.
- 150 Foot Transmission Range for listening enjoyment upstairs, downstairs, virtually everywhere in your home and outside in your backyard.
- 900 MHz Radio Frequency (RF) Transmission provides better sound quality and greater range.
- 30mm Diameter Driver Units are larger than many portable headphones for deeper bass, lower distortion and wider dynamic range; low frequency response extends down to 20Hz.
- PET Diaphragms ensure high rigidity for minimum distortion, and low mass for excellent high-frequency response.
- Ferrite Magnets combine high energy and small size for ample sound output.
- Comfortable Open-Air Type Supra-Aural Headphones fit securely for maximum frequency response reception.
- Double Headband with self-adjusting mechanism conforms to the curve of your head for a fit.
- Easy Rechargeable Battery System automatically charges the headphones when placed onto the transmitter.
- 3 Transmission Channels Available helps ensure optimum signal reception; convenient sliding selector control on the side of the transmitter.
- Automatic Power On/Off for both headphones and transmitter conserves battery life; transmitter turns on when it senses an input signal; headphones turn on when you place them on your head.
- Complete Kit is supplied, which includes transmitter, headphones, connecting cord, UniMatch plug adapter and AC power supply.
- Supplied Connecting Cord goes directly to headphone output of your high fidelity system for easy connection to hi-fi system, TV or VCR.
- FM Transmission System resists static and distortion for higher fidelity.
- Included Rechargeable NiMHBatteries provide up to 18 hours of playback when fully charged.
Price: $50
Sennheiser RS-65 Hi-Fi Stereo Wireless Headphones
Manufacturers Description: The RS-65 wireless RF headphone system with open, circumaural headphones features an integrated, switchable SRS processor for impressive surround sound. The system has very transparent and balanced sound reproduction and comes equipped with Center-Lock TM Auto-Tuning. This feature allows you to automatically adjust to the transmitter with a simple touch of a button (and can simply be returned with a second touch if it locks on to your neighbor's transmitter).
Features:
- Supra-aural, hi-fi stereo headphones for superb audio quality
-Volume and transmission channel can be set individually on the headphones
- Expand with an additional set of headphones for multiperson use
- Soft, cloth-covered earpads and headband cushion for comfortable extended use
- Transmission range: 300 feet
- Extremely lightweight - less than 6 ounces
Price: $180
Sennheiser RS-85 Hi-Fi Stereo Wireless Headphones
Manufacturers Description: The RS-85 wireless RF headphone system with open, circumaural headphones features HiDyn Plus noise reduction for wide dynamics and superb sound quality, ensuring a very natural and detailed sound reproduction. The RS-85 comes equipped with Center-Lock TM Auto-Tuning, which allows you to automatically adjust to the transmitter with a simple touch of a button (and can simply be returned with a second touch if it locks on to your neighbor's transmitter). The RS-85 headphones feature reception up to 300 feet from the transmitter, through walls and ceilings, even outside the home. A second battery pack is also provided for near limitless use; simply charge one as the other is being used.
|W|P|114752303041829184|W|P|Review of Popular Wireless Headphones|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comWhen it comes to computer speaker systems, you have a lot of choice. However, there are simply some brands that stand way out in terms of sound quality and dependability, and one of those brands is certainly Logitech. Logitech computer speakers are some of the best on the market, and provide a great deal of clean, powerful sound for a very reasonable price. Logitech offers a variety of computer speaker systems, for relatively inexpensive 2.1 2-speaker systems to the power 5.1 and 6.1 gaming computer systems with multiple surround-sound speakers. Whatever you are looking for in computer speakers, it is likely that Logitech has it.
Logitech x-230 2.1 2-Piece Dual Drive Computer Speakers
Manufacturers Description: Crank up the audio on your PC with this 2.1-channel computer speaker system and enjoy clean, crisp, consistent sound from your games, music, and more. The Logitech X-230's high-tech subwoofer adjusts itself dynamically to deliver distortion-free bass, while the two wall-mountable satellite speakers use Logitech's patented FDD2 technology to eliminate the uneven sound response created by conventional dual-driver designs. The result: a clear, uniform sound field without the "hot spots" and inconsistency of other dual-driver satellites.
Features:
-32 watts total power (6 watts x 2, plus 20-watt subwoofer)
-Frequency Directed Dual Driver (FDD2) satellite technology produces a uniform sound field for full, rich sound
-Dynamic, real-time bass equalization maximizes bass response while minimizing distortion
-Ported subwoofer design displaces more air for deeper bass
-Headphone jack enables private listening
-Master volume and subwoofer level controls placed for quick, convenient access
-Satellite speaker stands rotate for easy wall-mounting
Price: $50
Value Rating: 9.5 / 10 - This computer speaker system sounds better than some speakers that are $100+ with at least 50 watts of power. It has great crisp sound at nearly all volumes and the bass is surprisingly powerful. Be aware that the subwoofer is not magnetically shielded, and should be kept away from your monitor.
Logitech X-530 5.1 5-Piece Computer Speaker System
Manufacturers Description: Plug the Logitech X-530 into your computer, music player, DVD player, or even PlayStation2 or Xbox game console and immerse yourself in clean, crisp, consistent surround sound from your games, movies, and more. The high-tech subwoofer adjusts itself dynamically to deliver distortion-free bass, while the five wall-mountable satellite speakers use Logitech's patented FDD2 technology to eliminate the uneven sound response created by conventional dual-driver designs. The result: a clear, uniform sound field without the "hot spots" and inconsistency of other dual-driver satellites.
Features:
-70 watts total system power (7.4 watts x 4, plus 15.5-watt center speaker and 25-watt subwoofer)
-Frequency Directed Dual Driver (FDD2) satellite technology produces a uniform sound field for full, rich sound
-Matching front and rear satellites deliver balanced surround sound
-Dedicated center channel makes dialogue clear and intelligible.
-Dynamic, real-time bass equalization maximizes bass response while minimizing distortion
-Ported subwoofer design displaces more air for deeper bass
-Headphone jack enables private listening
-Master volume and subwoofer level controls placed for quick, convenient access
-Satellite speaker stands rotate for easy wall mounting
Price: $60
Value Rating: 9.0 / 10 - A great step up from the X-230. It has the same great sound, with extra bass and a little more all-around power. The extra speakers are great for a surround sound setting. Only downside is that some games are not compatible with the this 5.1 system. Worth the extra $10 for most people.
Logitech X620 6.1 Computer Speakers
Manufacturers Description: More speakers means more sound, more detail, and more intensity. That's what the Logitech X-620 6.1-channel speaker system is all about. Thanks to its 6 satellites, including a dedicated rear center speaker, you can hook it up to your PC or video game console and enjoy your games, music, and movies with sound that truly surrounds you.
Are you looking for powerful bass? Crisp highs and mid-range? The X-620 delivers. Its patented, powerful pressure-driver subwoofer provides twice the bass of conventional designs for smooth, powerful lows, and the satellite speakers provide rich midrange and crisp high-end tones. Even if you don't have a 6.1 sound card, you can still enjoy the benefits of all seven speakers by using the source selector switch.
Got a Sony PlayStation2, Microsoft Xbox, or Nintendo GameCube? Just plug in the X-620 using the convenient video game console adapter and immerse yourself in the explosions, music, and dialogue of your favorite games.
Comes with 6 satellite speakers and a powered 8-inch subwoofer; 70 watts total system power (140 watts peak).
Price: $85
Value Rating: 9.0 / 10 - Another hit from Logitech. This one is much like more expensive home theater systems. Truely one of the best speaker systems in the growing 6.1 class. An important note: prepare to buy a pricey Sound Blaster 6.1 Audigy sound card in order to take full advantage of this speaker system.
Logitech Z-5300e 5.1 2-Piece Surround Sound PC and Gaming Speaker System
Manufacturers Description: Demanding gamers require high power, THX performance, and true surround sound. The Logitech Z-5300e delivers on all counts, with a sleek appearance featuring silver speaker accents and removable black cloth grilles. The system includes a patented dual chamber subwoofer that pounds out twice the bass of conventional designs to deliver deep, loud, and powerful bass. The Z-5300e also features polished aluminum phase-plug satellite drivers that project superb high-end and rich mid-range tones for balanced sound, along with a full-featured SoundTouch wired remote that provides convenient controls for quick adjustments. The satellite speakers' rotating pedestals allow for easy installation on the wall or desktop.
Features:
-280 watts system power (35.25 watts x 4, plus 39-watt center and 100-watt subwoofer)
-PlayStation2, Xbox, and GameCube owners can plug in the Z-5300e using a console adapter
-Silver speaker accents and removable black cloth grilles
-Conveniently control volume and power with the wired remote, which also features a headphone jack
-Enjoy twice the bass of conventional designs with patented subwoofer design
-Satellites fit on a shelf or mounted on the wall
-Use Matrix mode and source selector switch to create breathtaking 5.1 surround sound from stereo, 4-channel, or 5.1 sound sources
Price: $150
Value Rating: 8.0 / 10 - This system is almost too much for your average computer user - but it's great for gamers who demand perfection in their sound system. Even though it will work with game consoles, remember that it is a computer speaker system, and works best with a pc.
|W|P|114752299164867707|W|P|Review of Logitech Computer Speakers|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comVideo technology has increased significantly over the past years, and is continuing to grow at an incredible rate. Digital Video Disc’s aka DVD’s are the most likely the last big jump in consumer video technology that everyone is familiar with. To keep up with the ever advancing world of electronics a new format of video storage will be released soon called Blu-ray.
Blu-Ray is a next generation optical disc that will blow the socks off of what we all know today: DVD. Conventional DVD’s use a red laser that have long wave lengths, which limits the storage capacity on a disc. Blu-Ray uses a blue laser which has much shorter wave lengths. Because the wave lengths on the Blu-Ray are much smaller it can focus on a spot with much greater precision, allowing for data to be packed much more tightly than the red laser DVD’s.
Blu-Ray discs can hold up to 50GB’s of information which 10 times that of a 4.5GB DVD. 10 times the storage will greatly increase the amount of information that we can save on any one disc and will change the way we save information. Dual Layer Blu-Ray discs will be able to hold up to 4 hours of High-Definition Video. High Definition video is going to hit big here, Blu-Ray is an example of a technology that is going to make it happen. 50GB is probably comparable to size of many of our hard-drives, and to picture having all of that information on a small disc that we can slide into a pocket and take wherever we want is a bit scary.
Expect to see Blu-Ray replacing DVD and VCR over the next few years, following along with the transition of video to High Definition Video. Video isn’t the only thing that will benefit from Blu-Ray technology; I would expect that it will also become the standard for PC and other types of storage.
|W|P|114752295073246053|W|P|What is Blu-Ray DVD|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comDo You Feel Used by Computers?
A look at second-user computer equipment.
Let's dispense with the myths first. I'm NOT talking about the sort of second-hand computers you get from some high street junk shops, or the sort you can buy from free ads newspapers. These are the types that get used computers a bad reputation since there are many dodgy deals to be had!
I'm talking about a different breed altogether, the sort of used computers you'd be proud to own and feel safe buying because they have proper and lengthy warranties on each and every one of them and have been extensively tested and approved.
The criterion is quite strict. Sure, there are any number of companies out there who offer used computers at low prices. Very few offer 12-month warranties however and many of them disappear just as quickly as they arrived leaving you with a problem. All computers, no matter which category they fit in, or what you call them, should be high quality, guaranteed, fully working computers from a reputable supplier.
So, let's put all the computers into two categories, I'm going to call them 'used' and 'unused' computers.
1. Used Computers
Second-hand, second user and used computers are what you would expect in that they have had a previous owner. Many of the computers have been returned to the company from which they were bought in the first place. This is ideal as the company has the appropriate expertise and spares already in place to correct any faults they find.
There are a number of reasons why computers are returned:
- businesses, colleges, individuals etc upgrade their computer equipment for the latest model
- the equipment was leased over a set period and the lease expires (so the equipment is returned)
- the computer gets a fault that can't be fixed quickly so it is swapped permanently out for a new one
- the customer changes their mind just after purchasing
As you can appreciate, 'used computer' can mean anything from 'barely used' to 'a couple of years old'. However, once returned the computers go through a rigorous check procedure, have their hard disks cleared or changed, have new keyboards, mice and cables if worn and new cases if they have noticeable damage. If there are any faulty components, such as sound card, video card, floppy drive etc, these are always replaced. These computers are often referred to as ex-lease, open-box, returns, refurbished, reclaimed, remanufactured, rebuilt, recycled, recertified or reconditioned computers. Phew!
At worst, the used computers, as sold on to you, have minor blemishes, scratches, dents or wear. This is always just cosmetic and does not affect either the performance or value of the computers in any way. What you receive is a fully-working computer, the same working condition as new, but at a price well below that of new. You can often pick up recent high-specification models second-hand and save hundreds of pounds. Of course there are lots of bargains to be had whatever model or type you decide to purchase but note you will sometimes find it difficult to get anything as stock can go very quickly some weeks.
2. Unused Computers
The other main categories of computers are the overstock, surplus, liquidated, superceded, discontinued, open box or end-of-line stock. These are all basically the same in that they are all UNUSED computers. So these are not what you would really classify as second-hand, ie they have not personally been owned and used by any business, college, individual etc. They will often be in their original packaging.
The reasons why these computers come on to the market are because:
- a manufacturer has brought out new models and wants to get rid of the 'old' superceded stock in his warehouse
- a store wants to raise some urgently needed cash and sell his unsold stock
- a factory or store becomes bankrupt and the computer stock is sold
In most of these cases, the stock gets sold to specialist dealers who buy in bulk and who then sell it on to the public, businesses etc. They then either provide a new warranty themselves for the equipment, or ensure there is a full warranty from the original manufacturer. You'll often find Toshiba, HP, Compaq and other brand name computers offered with a 12-month warranty from the original manufacturer. Note that sometimes suppliers refer to open box as meaning refurbished - they will usually state in the description what they mean.
So that's it. Two main categories of computers, quite different from each other but both offering great deals on branded equipment. Either way you will save money and still get a peace-of-mind guarantee on your computer purchase.
One last point. Make sure you check what you are getting for your money. Sometimes the computer may come without Windows installed or without a monitor. Don't assume - check. This will ensure you are happy with your savings AND your purchase.
|W|P|114752292151698284|W|P|Do You Feel Used by Computers?|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comComputer Mice
Every computer user can hopefully identify their mouse and the importance it plays in the daily operation of their computer. Mice are nothing new and for the most part are nothing overly complex, but the average user may not be familiar with all of the options and technologies that may go into these little devices. This Tech Tip will take a look at some of the features of mice that people may take for granted, or may otherwise be unaware of.
Tracking Technologies
Mechanical mice - Mechanical mice were the first ones used on computers, and can still be found for sale, despite the advances of tracking technologies. These mice feature a hard ball on the underside that rolls as the mouse is moved, and rollers inside the mouse allow the physical motion to be translated to the pointer on the screen. Some “ball mice” are a bit more advanced and replace the internal rollers with optical sensors, but the same principle applies.
Mechanical mice require occasional maintenance to keep the ball and rollers free of lint and other debris, and with numerous moving parts there is always a potential for problems. The use of a mouse pad is recommended for these mice as they not only provide a clean surface to work on, but also provide the needed resistance for the ball to roll smoothly.
The precision of mechanical mice is not particularly good, and although they may be fine for typical desktop work, they were never quite up to the task of detailed graphics work or serious game playing.
Optical mice - Optical mice replace the whole ball/roller assembly of mechanical mice with a beam of a light and an optical sensor. The beam of light shines down on the surface below the mouse and the sensor uses the light to track the movement. The images included with the listing for this optical mouse (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=HTM-39GWT&cat=MOU) provide a glimpse at the bottom of the mouse, where the light and sensor can be seen.
Optical mice have several advantages over mechanical mice. There are no moving parts to break or otherwise cause problems. The need for maintenance is greatly reduced as the bottoms have no openings or rollers to collect lint. Although mice generally aren’t heavy, the elimination of the ball and roller mechanism allows an optical mouse to be much lighter than a comparable mechanical mouse. The precision of optical mice is also much greater than mechanical mice, and the resolution can go from the low hundreds to the high hundreds (as measured in dpi, dots per inch).
Another advantage is that the need for a mouse pad may be eliminated with an optical mouse, as they do best while tracking on any smooth, flat surface. A clean desktop is generally good enough, but those looking to take the precision of optical mice to the highest level may opt for a performance “mousing surface”. There are several precision mousing surface manufacturers, such as XRay Pads (http://www.xraypad.com/) and FUNC Industries (http://www.func.net/), that design pads to appeal to game players and others who demand the best performance.
Laser mice - Laser technology is the latest and greatest in computer mice tracking, and takes the advantages of optical to a new level. Most of the attributes of a laser mouse have been described in the optical mouse section, except for one. Instead of a fairly wide beam of light, it uses an extremely narrow beam of laser light.
The Logitech MX1000 laser mouse may be the mouse for you if you are looking for extreme precision. According to Logitech, the laser technology used in the MX1000 provides up to “20x more sensitivity to surface detail—or tracking power—than optical.”
Hard Wired Connection Technologies
Serial – Serial mice are fairly difficult to come by these days, as are the ports they need in order to operate. This technology is quite old and slow, and the popularity and convenience of USB has all but eliminated the need for this interface on your typical PC. But, there were mice that sported the 9-pin connection needed to connect to a serial port, and many PS2 mice used to include an adaptor for Serial ports.
PS2 - PS2 mice were the standard for a long time, as all motherboards provided two PS2 ports for connecting a keyboard and a mouse. USB technology has become so widely used that the slower and less convenient PS2 ports are on the verge of extinction with the Serial port. That said, not many mice are still sold that only support a PS2 connection, but there are still some available.
USB – Most mice can now connect via USB, and include an adaptor to be used on a PS2 port, as well. It seems that just about any mouse now uses USB to connect, whether it is a wired mouse, or any variety of wireless mice that we are about to look at.
Wireless Connection Technologies
Radio Frequency – The most common type of wireless mouse uses radio frequencies to communicate motion to a receiver that is connected to the PC. This generic wireless mouse (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=RF-M308-RC-USB&cat=MOU) operates on the 27MHz frequency and the mouse itself is powered by AAA batteries which are not included. As you move up the price scale of RF (Radio Frequency) wireless mice, the packages will generally include an integrated rechargeable battery, as does the Logitech MX1000 discussed previously. Other features of higher end RF wireless mice include extended range, greater precision, and a receiver that doubles as a battery charger.
Bluetooth – The Tech Tip on Bluetooth discussed the basics of this wireless technology, and how it was a good fit for ‘lower speed’ devices, like a mouse. Logitech and IOGear are two manufacturers offering products for Bluetooth users, in addition to more traditional mice. The Bluetooth mice are also battery powered, and use the 2.4GHz radio frequency to communicate with an included receiver/charger or other Bluetooth adaptor.
RFID – A truly unique approach to wireless mice has been developed by a company called A4Tech. The A4Tech ND-30 RFID wireless mouse must be used with the included mouse pad in order to function, but there are no batteries in the mouse, and no cords on the mouse to get in the way. It works by using electro magnetic induction between the pad (which is plugged into a USB port) and the wireless, non-powered mouse. You never have to worry about replacing / charging batteries, and the weight of the mouse is greatly reduced since the power features are no longer necessary.
Features
Buttons – Most mice (except for a Macintoch’s) include at least two buttons. The use of these is fairly well understood, but other buttons may be featured on a mouse to further simplify common tasks. The Logitech MX 510 mouse features a total of 8 buttons which can be programmed to execute functions of the user’s choosing.
Scroll wheels – Many mice now include a scroll wheel between the two main buttons which serves to allow up/down scrolling of documents and web pages. The scroll wheel may also serves as a third button on some mice, and clicking the scroll wheel will activate commands in many applications. More advanced scroll wheels are found on some mice that allow for left to right scrolling, which may be useful on a wide spreadsheet or large image.
Extra features – Many mice provide more than the basic functionality we have come to expect. Some provide a reduced foot print in order to make them more portable for use with a notebook computer. Some are designed for multi-tasking and provide an integrated flash memory card reader. Then, there are others that just look cool with a bit of a light show, or that actually keep you cool by including a small fan in the palm rest area.
Final Words
On the surface, computer mice are fairly simple devices that may not receive the attention they deserve by end users. Selecting a high quality, ergonomically designed mouse can do wonders for productivity and comfort, and the options available should allow anyone to find the right mouse for their personal preferences.
|W|P|114752288887049695|W|P|How To Choose a Computer Mouse|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comA surge protector [AKA surge suppressor] is an electrical plug-in device designed to distribute safe electrical voltages to other electrical or electronic devices. Surge protectors resemble power strips in appearance; however, they are more sophisticated and deliver a constant, continuous power supply.
In addition to connecting multiple devices to a single power source, surge protectors provide protection from frequent problems that plague conventional utility power. The most common of these problems are surges (temporary increase of voltage) and brownouts (temporary decrease of voltage). These disturbances slowly degrade many power supply units and cause premature equipment failure. The rising demand on our nation’s power grids is causing more brownouts than ever before (Gamble; Power Protect Your Computer).
The Inside of a Surge Protector
Toroidal Choke Coil: The toroidal choke coil is an electromagnet wrapped in wire. It filters out line noise as the hot wire passes through it.
Metal Oxide Varistors (MOV’s): An MOV has three parts: a piece of metal oxide material in the middle and two semiconductors joined to the hot and ground wire. As a protective connecting unit it shifts unsafe voltage levels to the ground wire.
Neutral Wire: The neutral wire is common in modern wiring practices for safety. It is used in conjunction with the hot wire and the ground wire.
Hot Wire: The hot wire holds the passing current which contains excess voltage.
Fuse: A fuse is a resistor used to protect the wiring from getting too hot. Fuses “blow or burn out”, thereby preventing the electrical current from traveling further.
Ground Wire: The ground wire protects users from getting an electrical shock. It receives excess voltage from from the MOVs. Most surge protectors contain a parallel circuit design whereby the extra voltage is fed away from the standard path to another circuit. Another design is a series circuit where the electrical current is slowed; moreover it detects high voltage, stores the electricity, and releases it gradually (Harris).
The majority of the electrical currents diversion is done through the metal oxide varistor or MOV. The MOV acts as a pressure-sensitive valve: based on the level of voltage, the electrons in the semiconductors behave differently either creating lower or higher resistance. When the voltage is correct, an MOV doesn’t do anything (Harris).
Specifications and Quality Considerations
Energy Absorption: Surge processors are measured in joules (the amount of energy they can absorb). The higher the number, the better the protection: 200 joules provides basic protection, 400 is good and 600 or high is superior protection.
UL1449: Standard rated by Underwriters Laboratories as the minimum protection standards for surge protectors. It rates suppressors by the amount of voltage passage they allow.
Protection Indicator: LED indicator as to metal-oxide varistors functioning. MOVs do not last forever – one lightening strike can fry them out.
Line Conditioning: Most surge protectors contain this feature. It filters out line noise using a toroidal choke coil to “condition” the current.
Power Switch: There are manual on/off power switches as well as circuit switches. Circuit switches are useful for keeping some components running while others are shut off.
Circuit Breaker or Fuse: A fuse is a resistor that can conduct current below a certain level. If the current is higher than acceptable, heat burns the fuse and cuts off the circuit. Breakers are more economical than fuses as they do not have to be replaced.
Protection Guarantee: Read the terms and conditions carefully! It is important to understand your consumer rights in the event of damage to devices your surge protector neglects to protect (Kozierok).
According to data published on Hewlett Packard’s website, recent statistics reveal 63 percent of all electronics casualties are the result of a power related problem. Most affected are devices using computer chips and high-speed microprocessors. Unprotected computers can suffer hardware degradation and extensive damage when exposed to power surges (Power Protect Your Computer).
The cost of a surge protector varies greatly depending on user needs. Basic models sell for as low as $10 but one should be cautious as to the capabilities these units offer.
NOTE: It is important to connect all peripheral equipment to the surge protector for complete protection. This includes phone jacks, modems, cables, and any other external devices that will receive electrical current.
All visuals have been removed from this article to comply with the publishing rules for this site.
|W|P|114752284704109805|W|P|Surge Protector: A Simple Mechanism Description|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comWhat is so important about cables anyway?
One of the most common questions asked by consumers faced with purchasing cables for their audio or home theater system is, “What is so important about cables anyway?” They can cost as much or more than some of the hardware in the system and to many it is difficult to understand why wire isn’t just wire.
To begin to understand how audio cables work, we have to start with the two fundamentally different types of audio cables you are likely to have in your system. The first type of cable is called an interconnect, which is used to connect various components together (such as a CD player to a receiver). The second type of cable is called the loudspeaker cable (this is the wire going from the receiver or amplifier to the speakers). It is important to realize that both types of cables are carrying the same information, just with different amounts of energy.
Interconnects carry a signal with very little energy. These cables only need just enough energy to convey the information from the source, for example a CD player, to the amplifier. The low energy requirement means that the signal in interconnects has very little current (usually in the range of thousandths of an amp).
Loudspeaker cables on the other hand, carry a large amount of energy. All of the energy required to move the speaker cones and make sound must come through the loudspeaker cables. Because of the high-energy requirement in these cables the current is relatively high (currents can reach 10 amps or more).
The very basic reason why audio cables are important is because they change the signal going through them. There are two different, fundamental ways that an audio cable can change the signal. The cable itself can change the signal, or the cable can allow outside sources of energy to change the signal.
In order to understand how these two situations can occur, some basic background electrical knowledge is needed.
Signals in all types of wires are conveyed by the combination of voltage and current. Every signal has some amount of voltage and some amount of current. The larger the difference in voltage between two places, say the beginning and the end of a cable, the larger the amount of current, and vice-versa. The direct analogy to voltage and current is the flow of water through a hose. The amount of water flowing through the hose is analogous to current. The water pressure in the hose is analogous to voltage. The higher the amount of water pressure, the more water will flow through the hose. The higher the amount of voltage, the more current will flow through the wire.
Every cable has a set of electrical properties that can be measured using standard electrical testing equipment. The three most basic properties are resistance, capacitance and inductance. While a detailed description of these three different electrical properties is outside the scope of this article, a basic description of the relevant effects of these three properties can be given.
- Resistance opposes current. The higher the resistance the greater the amount of energy that is removed from the current and turned into heat.
- Capacitance opposes changes in voltage. If a voltage is increasing, capacitance will cause the voltage to increase more slowly. If a voltage is decreasing, capacitance will cause the voltage to decrease more slowly.
- Inductance opposes changes in current. If current is increasing, inductance will cause the current to increase more slowly. If current is decreasing, inductance will cause the current to decrease more slowly.
The final piece of background knowledge that is needed for this article is what the audio signal looks like. If one were to take the speaker cover off a speaker to look at the speaker cone while music is playing, you would see that it is moving back and forth. In order to move the speaker cone back and forth, the electrical signal must push and then pull the cone in rapid and repeating fashion. This is accomplished by having an Alternating Current, or AC.
Alternating Current simply means that the voltage oscillates between positive and negative. Because the voltage drives the current, this means that the current also goes positive and negative. In other words, the current is going back and forth in the wire, just like the speaker cone. The subtle variations in how fast the voltage and current go back and forth creates the different sounds that we hear when listening to music.
How a cable itself affects the audio signal
Now, going back to the ways that the cable itself can change the signal going through it, let’s consider both types of cables separately.
As stated previously, interconnect cables carry a very small amount of current. Relative to the current the voltage is large. Because of that fact, capacitance is important, but inductance is relatively unimportant. As the voltage oscillates between being positive and negative, the capacitance slows the voltage changes down, and causes delays. This can cause audible distortion in the sound. Because interconnects have very little current, resistance is not much of a factor. Even an interconnect with extremely high resistance will only remove an infinitesimally small amount of energy.
The signal in loudspeaker cables is essentially the opposite of the signal in interconnects. Both cables have the same information, but in loudspeaker cables, the voltage is small and the current is large, relatively speaking. Because of the high current, both resistance and inductance are important in loudspeaker cables. The higher the resistance, the greater the amount of energy that will be absorbed by the cables. The resistance will not cause any distortion, but it will decrease the volume of the sound. The inductance on the other hand, can cause distortion. As the current oscillates between being positive and negative, the inductance slows the current changes down, and causes delays.
How a cable lets outside sources of energy affect the signal
As stated previously, the second fundamental way of altering a signal passing through an audio cable is to introduce outside sources of energy. This outside energy is typically termed “noise”. By definition, if any energy is absorbed by the signal, the signal has been distorted.
There are many potential sources of noise around audio cables. Some of the more common sources of noise, such as radio frequency waves, are familiar to most people. When wiring up a radio, frequently a consumer must attach an antenna. Antennae are intentionally designed to channel radio frequency energy into a stereo. Just like an antenna, it is entirely possible for an audio cable to pick up radio frequency energy. If you are not intending to listen to the radio, this is not a welcome effect.
Electronic components, electrical cords, sound waves, and even the sun, are all capable of creating noise. Electrical cords create electromagnetic fields around them that can transfer energy to a cable. Sound waves create mechanical vibrations that can be transformed into electrical energy that is added to an audio signal. Because there are so many different types of noise, there are many methods used to prevent a cable from picking up noise. Shielding, twisting of conductors, and mechanical damping are all common noise protection methods in cables.
While noise affects both interconnects and loudspeaker cables, generally the effects are far more significant in interconnects. This is because the signals in the interconnects have far less energy. Since most forms of noise are inherently low energy to begin with, this means that it is far easier for them to modify the low energy interconnect signals than the high-energy loudspeaker cable signals.
Macro vs. Micro
The parameters discussed so far have been primarily “macro” effects. These are for the most part the top-level parameters that effect cables. These parameters as well as others not discussed here also exist at a “micro” level. Taking capacitance as an example, a given cable will have an overall capacitance that can be measured. This overall capacitance is a “macro” level parameter. The same cable can also be analyzed as 1000 separate but connected pieces. Each piece will have a local capacitance. These local parameters are “micro” effects and can have their own impact on the signal separate from the “macro” effects.
The impact that the “micro” level parameters have on an audio signal is usually less than the impact of the “macro” level parameters. However, they do still make a difference in the signal transfer. The various ways that audio companies choose to either mitigate or ignore these “micro” level details is, in part, responsible for the vast array of different cable designs. From cryogenic treatments and precious metal wires, to fine silk insulation and fluid filled cable jackets; extreme cable designs abound.
Will I hear the difference?
The fact of the matter is that cables do alter the sound going through them, and that it is audible. You do not need to be an expert, or an audiophile, to hear the difference. To demonstrate this point, simply listen to your stereo. If you close your eyes, does it sound like the music is being played live right in front of you? This is what audiophiles strive for, and unless you have a very high-fidelity system, your answer to this question will most likely be no. You may have a hard time describing what exactly does not sound right about your system, but you know that it doesn’t sound like a live performance.
Of course, the reason why the music does not sound live cannot be blamed solely on the cables. The degradation of the sound occurs in every component of your system. However, the point here is that even a casual listener can detect the subtle distortions that can prevent music playback from sounding live. Improving the quality of your audio cables will improve the sound quality of your system.
It is fairly safe to say that no matter what cable you use, the modifications to the sound will be small. Audio cables will never cause a listener to hear a piano when a flute is being played. However, it is the small detail that makes all the difference between good and bad quality sound. That is why very strong opinions are formed about various cables.
As audio systems continue to improve in accuracy, listening to a “live” performance in your living room gets closer to reality. Cables are an enabling factor for advancements in audio reproduction and can play a remarkably important role in your system.
|W|P|114752280567838678|W|P|A Technical Introduction to Audio Cables|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comAre you captivated by the stunning Case Mods you've seen online but shell shocked at some of the prices.
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|W|P|114752272275964609|W|P|Where Can I Find The Best Case Mods Online and Save Money?|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.comIt is extremely important not to make or write any changes to data on the hard drive without first verifying the hard drive configuration. Therefore, the first priority when unable to access information on a hard drive is to verify all of the configuration information dealing with the suspect hard drive.
Partition Parameter Value or Equation
Partition Status Bootable
Starting Head 1
Starting Sector 1
Starting Cylinder 0
Partition Type Bigdos (drives greater than 30 MB), otherwise DOS 12
Ending Head Total Number of Heads -1
Ending Sector Sectors per Track displayed in Volume Boot Sector
Ending Cylinder Number of Cylinders set in CMOS - 2
Total # of Sectors Number of Sectors displayed in Volume Boot Sector
Start Absolute Sector Number of Sectors per Track in Volume Boot Sector
Boot Signature 55AA
Step One: Make sure that Micro-Scope detects the hard drive
In Micro-Scope, System Configuration, Compare Settings - check to make sure that there is not an asterisk beside the number of hard drives detected value. If there is an asterisk, either the CMOS is set incorrectly, or there is an electronic problem (controller, cable, drive).
Step Two: Compare the BIOS parameters against the drive partition information.
In Micro-Scope, System Configuration, System Information - note the information displayed for the hard drive, specifically the parameters for the drive in question. Compare these parameters to the parameters in the MBR display under Micro-Scope, System Configuration, Partition Display using the following formula:
System Information Master Boot Record
Cylinders Ending Cylinder + 2
Heads Ending Head + 1
Sectors Sectors Per Track
If the information does not match, either the partition information is corrupt, or the CMOS setup or controller BIOS setup (if one exists) is incorrect, or there is a problem communicating with the drive.
Step Three: Check the drive functionality
In Micro-Scope, Diagnostics, Fixed Disk Tests - check the information in the Fixed Disk Selected window. Make sure that the proper drive type, model, and native parameters are showing in this window. If any of the information is incorrect, there is an electronic problem. Check the cable, controller and drive, re-seating all connections, and repeat the above procedure. After correcting the electronic problem, perform a read test on the first 10 cylinders of the drive. If any errors occur, then this is the most likely cause of the drive failure. Perform a read of the entire drive to determine if the errors are electronic in nature, or physical in nature. Electronic problems will result in the errors displayed not always being the same type or in the same location on the drive. If the problem is electronic, replace the cable, controller, and finally drive electronics and repeat the read test until no errors occur. If the error is physical, use an INT 13 type editor (such as Norton Advanced Editor), to block the entire drive and write the information to a daisy chained drive set to the same parameters as the faulty drive.
The next step, after the drive passes the read test on the first 10 cylinders, is to check the original partition setup of the drive.
Step Four: Check for the physical location of the master boot sector and the volume boot sector.
In Micro-Scope, Utilities, Fixed Disk Editor - use the FIND feature to search the last two bytes of each cylinder for a boot signature (55 AA). The first location where a boot signature should be found would be at cylinder 0, head 0, sector 1 (the master boot sector). The second location where a boot signature should be found is at cylinder 0, head 1, sector 1 (the volume boot sector). It is also possible to use the FIND feature to locate the volume boot sector by searching for MSDOS (in DOS based systems) or MSWIN (in Windows95 systems).
If there is a duplicate copy of the master boot sector found before the location of the volume boot sector, then it is possible that a boot virus has infected the hard drive in the system. The Rebuild Master Boot feature of Micro-Scope will eliminate any boot sector virus. Be sure to boot the system to the Micro-Scope diskette and immediately do a cold reboot of the system after using the Rebuild Master Boot feature.
If the volume boot sector is found in a location other than cylinder 0, head 1, sector 1, count the actual number of sectors before the volume boot sector, and compare that value to the value for the sectors per track displayed in the partition table described in step 2. If the values match, the most likely cause of the system failure is an incorrect CMOS setup. In this case the CMOS needs to be reset to the values indicated by the partition table described in step 2, remembering to use the formula described in step 2 when doing so. If the values do not match, set the CMOS Sectors Per track to the number of sectors counted before the volume boot sector and continue to the next step.
Step Five: Check the partition tables to make sure they are correct
Reboot the system to Micro-Scope and go to System Configuration, Partition Tables. Check the information displayed in the master boot record to see if there is any obvious corruption (that is, excessively large numbers, all partitions non-bootable, etc.) If there is no obvious corruption in the master boot record, then perform step 2 again. If the information matches at this point, go to step 6. If the information does not match, then set the sectors per track in the Master Boot Record to the number of sectors per track currently set in CMOS, set the starting head to 1, starting sector to 1, and starting cylinder to 0, and write the information to the drive.
Step Six: Verify the Master Boot Sector information
Display the Volume Boot Sector and use the values for heads and sectors per track (on the right half of the screen) to perform step 2 again.
If the values match, then the volume boot sector is probably okay. If any values in the Master Boot Record do not match the table to the right, reset the values to match the values in the table, and write to the drive.
If the values still do not match, both the Master Boot Record and the Volume Boot Record are probably corrupt. At this point, e-mail Technical Support for help in this situation. Future articles will provide more insight into the repair procedure.
Step Seven: Check the FATs
Check to see if the first FAT starts on the sector just beyond the volume boot sector. Use the find feature in the Fixed Disk Editor to search for F8 FF FF in the first three bytes of each sector. The first occurrence should be on sector two of head one. Continue to search until the second FAT is found, indicated by the second occurrence of F8 FF FF. Note the location of the cylinder, head and sector of the second FAT.
Based on the start of the second FAT, and the start of the first FAT, calculate how many sectors are in the first FAT. If necessary, read each sector starting at the first sector of the first FAT, keeping a count of the sectors that have been read until F8 FF FF is seen in the upper left of the HEX display, which would indicate the start of the second FAT. After calculating the sectors per FAT, compare this value to the value in the volume boot sector. If the values match, the drive should be accessible through DOS at this point.
Step Eight: Attempt to access the drive
Boot to a DOS-bootable floppy diskette and attempt to access the drive. If the root directory and sub-directories on the hard drive are readable at this point, then attempt to boot to the drive. If the drive boots at this point, the problem has been corrected. If the drive is still not bootable, e-mail the Micro 2000 Technical Support department for help.
Disclaimer - The Micro 2000 Tech Tip is a free service providing information only. While we use reasonable care to see that this information is correct, we do not guarantee it for accuracy, completeness or fitness for a particular purpose. Micro 2000, Inc. shall not be liable for damages of any kind in connection with the use or misuse of this information.
Micro 2000 Inc has been helping to solve the day-to-day challenges that IT departments face in order to keep their businesses operational as well as profitable for over 14 years. The company's primary goal is to put the customer first - through feature-rich, simple-to-use IT tools that can help IT administrators manage their jobs more effectively.
|W|P|114752267872468553|W|P|Trouble-shooting Hard Drive Problems - Part 1|W|P|venkat@sgdnetworks.com